Food and Drink: Wines of the Week

My other choice is Domaine de la Combe, Macon-Bray 1990, made by Henri Lafarge, an honourable exception to the usual Maconnais reds which are not renowned for their quality (pounds 4.99, Thresher Wine Shop). Deliciously soft with the juicy fruit of a beaujolais and an added dimension of spicy fruit richness, it is a lovely wine.

John Buck's Te Mata Estate in New Zealand's Hawkes Bay is best known for its outstanding cabernet and chardonnay, but in Castle Hill 1991 Sauvignon Blanc (pounds 7.99, Wine Rack, Bottoms Up), he has produced a delightful, refreshingly floral, orange-zesty dry white.

From across the Tasman in Victoria's Yarra Valley comes the most burgundian-style pinot noir produced at Coldstream Hills since the award-winning 1988. Smoky-scented with ripe cherry fruit and cinnamon spiciness, Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 1991 (pounds 8.49, Australian Wine Centre, 071-925 0751), will only disappoint a burgundy-hater.

The Fulham Road Wine Centre, west London, stocks two rather superior vins de pays from Domaine de la Rosiere in the Coteaux des Baronnies near the Cotes-du-Rhone. Domaine de la Rosiere 1990 Chardonnay (pounds 6.45), is full of rich, buttery chardonnay fruit, while the 1988 Merlot (pounds 5.65), has a fine mint and green bean-like bouquet with sweet, soft bordeaux-like fruitiness.

Finally, to di Majo Norante's superb Greco that I mentioned recently (pounds 6.99, Oddbins), and its flavourful stablemate, Ramitello (pounds 5.99, Oddbins).