The country wines of Languedoc-Roussillon – those labelled Pays d'Oc IGP – are some of the most diverse, value-for-money around.

Chemin De Moscou Pays d'Oc IGP 2011

A very traditional Southern French blend of mainly Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, this rivals some of the bigger names of the Languedoc for power and finesse. Its rounded combination of rich, ripe fruits has enough structure to improve over the years. But drink now with rare roast beef or steak-frites. £19.13 cambridge wine.com; £22.99 htfwines.co.uk

Paul Mas Estate Sauvignon Blanc 'Pépinière Vineyard' Pays d'Oc IGP 2013

One of 50-plus Pay d'Oc grape varieties gets a New World-style treatment: the zesty grapefruit and tropical-fruit flavours are terrific for any fish with Asian spicing, but there is also a bit of depth from some oak ageing. £9.99, majestic.co.uk (as part of a purchase of six mixed bottles)

Domaine Astruc Malbec Pays d'Oc IGP 2012

Once an unregarded component of Bordeaux blends, Malbec has been reinvented in an elegant manner. Still lots of luscious black fruit, but with some herbal French notes and plenty of structure and body. £7.35, addisonwines.com