Days Out; On the trail of York's historic lavatories

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If you've ever had a yen to visit the "Snickelways" of York, to follow its three miles of perimeter wall or tramp through Roman, Jewish and medieval history Yorkwalk can show you a thing or two. It also offers an "Historic Toilets" tour, described by the guide Matthew Wilson as a "unique saga of convenience".

The trail starts at the gates of Yorkshire Museum and takes in three main historic periods of sanitation: "Roman which was very good," Wilson says, "Medieval which was crap, if you will pardon the expression, and 19th century, which was when they made attempts to improve public health by the provision of better public facilities."

The first port of call is the ruins of St Mary's Abbey where medieval drains have been excavated. Despite Wilson's quip, it seems that cleanliness got close to godliness as the monks made flushing sewers, a skill that had died out in York after the Romans left.

Next we head north to King's Manor (formerly the residence of the abbot of St Mary's). After the Reformation this was converted into a private residence by Henry VIII with its garderobe overhanging from the first floor. "It used to empty into the moat," Wilson says. He is convinced that the royal rump itself would have found relief at this very spot.

From here the tour goes to Exhibition Square and Bootham Bar where York made its first attempts to clean up its act. "There were public garderobes here in medieval times," Wilson adds. "The church used private bequests to fund them, one here at Bootham Bar, another at Monk Bar and at third at Ouse Bridge, but when Henry confiscated church property at the Reformation he left York 'loo-less' for 300 years."

As a result the Ouse continued to live up to its name. In 1850, however, York tried urinals along the city perimeter "You couldn't enter or exit York without passing one," Wilson says. "But nothing was provided for women." Worse was to come. Steps put up so ladies could stroll round the city wall gave them a view of what was going on in the shiny new metal facilities below. Roofs were added.

Our next stop is the Roman Bath Pub, St Sampson Square, "a convenient place", Wilson says, to explain about how the Romans pioneered flushing in Britain. Then north to Monk Bar – for another fine set of medieval lavatories set into the bar itself – and south to Clifford's Tower from which it is possible to view St George's Field. In the 18th century part of the castle was converted to be "a place of relief" for gentry promenading round the city walls. From the tower it is possible to see the Guild Hall where in the 16th century councillors met to discuss ways of "improving" the malodorous Ouse. "It was noted that after meeting, the councillors used to relieve themselves in the river," Wilson says. "So, to defuse public anger, they voted themselves five shillings for to build a wainscot around the pissing place'. That way no one could see."

Adrian Mourby

The York Toilet Trail can be booked via Yorkwalk (01904 622303; www.yorkwalk.co.uk). Prices £5 and £4.50 concessions. Children £2. The next walk is at 2.15pm this Saturday.