White

1997 Savennieres Chateau Varennes, Chateau de Fesles, pounds 7.99, selected Unwins

The chenin blanc grape of the Loire Valley is at its best in Vouvray and the lesser-known appellation of Savennieres, where it makes rich, long-lived, bone-dry white wines.

From Chateau de Fesles, one of the best producers in the Anjou region, this is a classic example of chenin, both honeyed and rich but elegantly dry, with undertones of angelica spice and a lemon and grapefruit-like zestiness.

Red

1997 Bright Brothers TFN Douro, pounds 6.99, selected Tesco stores

This is a blend of the two premium port grapes of the Douro Valley, touriga francesa and touriga nacional, made at Quinta des Frades by Australian Peter Bright, a man who has championed Portugal's grape varieties since going native over a decade ago.

There's plenty of smoky, vanilla oak here infusing the powerful jam and damson fruitiness with an extra dimension of spice and a good smoothness of texture.