I CAN never resist buying boudin noir from our butcher in Normandy, with a view to hearty farmer- style breakfasts lubricated with eau-de-vie. Sadly, I haven't had any takers to date. As it stands, boudin noir is one ingredient I invariably have in the fridge, and I have come to regard its creamy, rich savour as a great standby.

75g/3oz unsalted butter

25g/1oz French bread, diced

110g/4oz boudin noir (blood

sausage), skin removed,

diced

1 scant tbsp calvados

a pinch of thyme leaves

sea salt, black pepper

1 x 700g/1lb 8oz guinea fowl

125ml/4fl oz dry white wine

a little chicken stock or water

To make the stuffing, first clarify 50g/2oz of the butter: melt it and skim off the surface foam. Decant the clear liquid and discard the milky solids below. Heat this in a frying pan and saute the bread, tossing it until it is crisp and golden. Combine it in a bowl with the sausage. Sprinkle over the calvados and add the thyme and seasoning.

Heat the oven to 190C fan oven/200C or 400F electric oven/Gas 6. Stuff the guinea fowl and place it in a roasting dish. Smear the remaining butter over the bird, pour over the wine, season generously and roast for 50 minutes. Remove to a plate and leave to rest in a warm place for 15 minutes. Skim off excess fat from the roasting tray, add a little chicken stock or water to the juices, and simmer vigorously until the gravy emulsifies, then taste for seasoning. Carve the guinea fowl and serve with the stuffing and gravy.

Annie Bell